In Hokkaido, snowdrifts soar into neon skies
Hokkaido's erased past is a reminder that picture-perfect snow globes are never as they seen. Dig beneath the surface, and…
Following in the paw prints of the polar bear
I'd always wanted to see a polar bear serendipitously. Finally, while snowmobiling across Svalbard, I came upon one where I…
For Ukrainians in Vardø, the Arctic is a refuge, not a battleground
The Arctic is often perceived as a future military theatre. But while war rages to the south, it has become…