Narva, Estonia: A would-be Arctic crossroads on Europe’s edge
The story of Narva is the story of the Arctic port that never was. Had it taken off as an…
Life on an Arctic farm, interrupted only by Norwegian jets
This summer, I found myself on a farm in the Norwegian Arctic solely in charge of 16 horses, 12 goats,…
Central Asia’s collapsing water tower
Remembering a trek through Central Asian highlands where glaciers look like spilled milk - and where they irrigate actual dairy…